A Thousand Miles Under the Malabar Sun: A Self-Driving Divine Odyssey

By Dhruv Kushwaha

There’s a certain tremor that runs through the soul when the call of the open road becomes too persistent to ignore. It’s a primal urge, roar of lion, chirping of birds, a whisper of wind urging you to shed the familiar and embrace the unknown. For years, I had dreamed of such an escape, a self-driving adventure with cherished friends, a tapestry woven from landscapes, shared laughter, and the thrill of uncharted paths. Then, one day, that dream began to coalesce into reality.

The initial spark came from the desire to truly experience India, to dive deeper than the tourist trails and forge our own narrative. The Northeast, with its emerald hills and hidden valleys, beckoned. The allure of Leh-Ladakh and Kashmir, with their stark beauty and spiritual aura, was undeniable. But this time, the compass pointed towards the Malabar Coast and the verdant embrace of its hills.

The final piece of the puzzle was resolved by our dear friend, Dr. I.K. Dixit, a Senior Journalist based in Mangalore. He was not only a gracious host but also possessed a vital ingredient for our planned expedition: his own car. A self-driving odyssey across 2,500 kilometers demanded reliability and freedom, and Dr. Dixit’s presence and vehicle were an invaluable asset. With Ritesh Srivastava, a wise soul from the ancient city of Varanasi, and Dalip Kumar, a jovial spirit hailing from the foothills of the Himalayas in Jammu, the quartet was complete, ready to embark on our adventure.

Our philosophy for the trip was simple: minimize commercial exchanges and maximize raw experience. We craved genuine encounters, unvarnished beauty, and the freedom to chart our own course. The planning was meticulous, a labor of love that involved pouring over maps, marking potential destinations and night halts, and crafting a paper roadmap – a tangible testament to our impending adventure.

The preparation list reflected our ethos. We were city dwellers by habit, accustomed to the conveniences of paved roads, air-conditioned rooms, and the sterile assurance of bottled water. However, for this journey, we yearned for the antithesis: the rugged charm of untamed nature, the life-giving solace of fresh river water, and the exhilarating mystery of darkness under a starlit sky. Our essentials were few but carefully chosen: camping tents to become our temporary homes, flashlights and LED lamps to pierce the veil of night, a sturdy hunter’s knife and warm blankets for comfort and security, and raw food materials and last but not the least a small gas-stove for the ritual of self-cooking under the vast, open sky.

Bangalore, a bustling metropolis in the heart of South India, was chosen as our rendezvous point. We arrived on January 22nd, our excitement crackling like static electricity. That night, crammed into an overnight taxi, we traversed the winding roads to Mangalore, finally arriving at Dr. Dixit’s welcoming residence at the break of dawn on January 23rd.

A refreshing fruit chat and a short rest later, we gathered to finalize our meticulously crafted roadmap and create a comprehensive shopping list. The tents, flashlights, and LED lamps had already arrived, eagerly awaiting their deployment. We then ventured into Mangalore, replenishing our supplies at D-Mart. As dusk settled, we paid our obeisance at the Mangala Devi Temple to begin our beautifully crafted journey and strolled along the serene shores of Tannirbhavi Beach also taking a dip into it, the rhythmic whisper of the waves serenading our anticipation.

Day 1: Mangalore to Kannur (200 km, 5-hour drive) – The Dance of Sand and Sea

January 24th dawned, filled with the crisp, clean air of the Malabar coast. With a final check of our supplies and a chorus of enthusiastic farewells from Dr. Dixit’s home, we turned the key and began our adventure cum pilgrimage south along the famed NH-66. The coastal highway snaked its way through a landscape of swaying palms, quaint villages, and glimpses of the shimmering Arabian Sea, right into the God’s own country, Kerala. By afternoon, we reached Kannur through Kasargod, a town steeped in history and brimming with the vibrant energy of Kerala.

Aromatic spices filled the air as we savored a delicious, traditional lunch at a local restaurant. The tangy flavors of Gongura and the sweet-sour punch of Mango pickles became an instant obsession, a culinary souvenir we knew we would be carrying with us long after we left.

After a brief encounter of the Kasargod sea beach our real first destination was Muzhappilangad Beach, a stretch of coastline unlike any I had ever encountered. One of the world’s best drive-in beaches, it presented a surreal landscape of firm, golden sand stretching for 4.5 kilometers, a canvas upon which cars danced with the tide. We joined the symphony of engines, feeling the exhilarating freedom as we navigated the shoreline, the salty spray kissing our faces.

As the sun began to dip towards the horizon, painting the sky in hues of fiery orange and soft lavender, we found a secluded spot to pitch our tents. The simple act of constructing our makeshift home, working together in effortless synchronicity, forged a deeper connection between us. The aroma of our self-cooked dinner mingled with the salty tang of the sea, a comforting blend

that warmed both body and soul. We sat around a crackling bonfire, sharing stories, laughter, and the profound tranquility of the seaside. The experience was, in a word, exhilarating.

The next morning, the rising sun painted the beach in a soft, ethereal light. We wandered into a nearby fishing village, observing the rhythm of life unfolding with graceful simplicity. We interacted with the locals, learning about their intimate connection with the sea, their resilience in the face of adversity, and their profound understanding of life’s simplest treasures. The experience served as a powerful reminder of the beauty of unpretentious living, a harmonious dance with nature, and a commitment to minimizing our carbon footprint.

Day 2: Kannur to Wayanad (100 km, 3-hour drive) – Whispers in the Coffee-Scented Hills

January 25th transported us from the sun-kissed shores to the breathtaking expanse of the Malabar Hills. The landscape transformed dramatically, giving way to rolling hills draped in a verdant tapestry of endless coffee plantations. The air was thick with the rich, intoxicating aroma of coffee blossoms, a sensory symphony that awakened the soul.

By afternoon, we reached Wayanad, a district known for its lush greenery, cascading waterfalls, and ancient tribal traditions. We set our sights on Chembra Peak, the tallest peak in Wayanad as high as about 7000 feet, renowned for the heart-shaped lake that miraculously never dries up.

The forest, dense and slightly risky, demanded respect and caution. We carefully selected a camping spot before sunset, mindful of the untamed beauty that surrounded us. The ritual of setting up camp, gathering firewood, and preparing a simple dinner of sandwiches and tea unfolded with quiet satisfaction. As darkness descended, we huddled around a crackling fire, the flickering flames casting dancing shadows on the dense foliage. The night in the deep forest was an experience both thrilling and unforgettable, a primal connection with the raw power and mystique of nature. All through the night, which was full of a rare celestial happening, with half a dozen planets aligned, we were ready to encounter the tiger, who had taken away a girl from our vicinity forcing the people to call for a Wayanad Bandh and also the Black Panther and Elephants, a real thrill and true adventure of our life with our little star the one and only Krishnadvait Dixit, alert through the night for all of us.

The next morning, we awoke to the symphony of the forest: the chirping of birds, the rustling of leaves, and the gentle murmur of a nearby stream.

We freshened up at a mountain spring, the chilly water invigorating our bodies and minds. After a refreshing self-cooked breakfast, we reluctantly bid farewell to our forest sanctuary. Before leaving Wayanad, we indulged in a unique experience: a cup of local grape tea (Anguri Chai) at a roadside stall with fond memories, a testament to the resourcefulness and ingenuity of the local community.

Day 3: Wayanad to Ooty (120 km, 3.5-hour drive) – Embracing the Queen of the Hills

January 26th, India’s Republic Day, marked the next leg of our journey: a scenic but undeniably steep drive to Ooty, the “Queen of the Hills.” The road wound its way through hairpin bends and verdant slopes, offering breathtaking vistas at every turn.

Our first stop was Wilson’s Dense Eucalyptus Tree Forest, planted in 1967 across a sprawling 30 acres. The towering trees, with their peeling bark and distinct aroma, created an otherworldly atmosphere, a cathedral of green that filtered the sunlight into dappled patterns.

The drive to Ooty was a test of our driving skills and our car’s resilience. The road climbed steadily, demanding constant vigilance. We marveled at the skill of the local drivers, navigating the sharp bends with effortless grace.

By 3 PM, we reached Ooty and made a beeline for Doddabetta, the highest peak in the Nilgiris at 8,652 feet. The telescope house perched atop the peak offered a panoramic vista that stretched as far as the eye could see. Clouds drifted lazily across the horizon, and the landscape unfolded beneath us in a symphony of green valleys and rolling hills.

Our initial plan to camp by a lake was thwarted by a drastic drop in temperature. Instead, we booked a simple hotel. Dalip Ji, ever the culinary maestro, prepared a finger-licking dinner with had made parathas, oh truly so tasty… We savored each bite, recounting the day’s adventures and reveling in the camaraderie that had become the defining characteristic of our journey.

Day 4: Ooty to Coimbatore (100km 4-hrs Drive) – Hairpin Bends and Whispering Waterfalls with sneaking leopard, panthers and herd of elephants all around

January 27th dawned crisp and clear, promising another day of unforgettable exploration. Our destination was Avalanche Lake, a pristine waterbody nestled amidst a dense pine forest.

The drive itself was the highlight of the day. The road snaked its way through a landscape of hairpin bends and towering trees,

demanding constant concentration but rewarding us with breathtaking vistas. We navigated over 50 sharp curves, each one a small victory.

As we approached Coimbatore, the landscape began to change, transitioning from the cool hills to the warmer plains. We stopped to admire the Geddai waterfalls, a cascading torrent of water plunging into a verdant pool. The air was thick with the roar of the falls and the scent of damp earth.

As dusk settled, we witnessed an extraordinary sight: a leopard gracefully crossing the road! It was a fleeting glimpse, a reminder of the untamed wilderness that still thrived in this part of the world. All through the serpentine road we were all alone up to about 15-20 Kilometers in the dense forest and a feel of the herd of Elephants all around us through the night made it a real adventure again.

We reached Coimbatore by 9 PM, weary but exhilarated. The hotel we booked, however, proved to be disappointing. It lacked the warmth and hospitality we had come to expect on our journey. Despite the less-than-ideal accommodation, we refused to let it dampen our spirits.

Day 5: Coimbatore to Guruvayur (240 km drive) – Spiritual Heights and Artistic Grandeur

January 28th began with a search for an authentic culinary experience. We found it at Geeta Restaurant, a local gem serving traditional Coimbatore dishes. The flavors were bold, vibrant, and deeply satisfying, a true reflection of the region’s culinary heritage.

We then embarked on a journey into art and history, visiting the Gass Forest Museum, founded in 1902. The museum showcased a fascinating collection of artifacts, revealing the rich cultural heritage and treasure of forest of the region.

Later in the day, we stood in awe before the majestic Adiyogi statue, a colossal bust of Lord Shiva recognized by Guinness World Records as the world’s largest sculpture of its kind. Bathed in blue inner lighting and sparkling in the soft glow of the moonlight, the statue exuded a sense of power, peace, and timeless wisdom. The experience was mesmerizing.

At 9 PM, we left Coimbatore, setting course for Guruvayur. Around 11 PM, we stopped at Palakkad, finding refuge in the luxurious Indian Railways’ Bhairavi Officer’s Rest House, courtesy Sh Arun Chaturvedi ji, the DRM Palakkad Railway Division. The welcome respite was much appreciated after a long day of driving and exploration.

To be continue…